General Lubrication                                                                                              

OIL Without doubt the most important fluid in any engine. This liquid stops parts from touching each other and thus prevents them from grinding each other away. You have all seen the commercials from the differing manufacturers, and a simple rule of thumb is you really do get what you pay for. The argument about how much better expensive oil is compared to its cheap counterpart rages on but expensive oil’s are generally better, especially at extremes. Whether the cost is relative to the improvement though is for you to decide.

Click here for a full lubrication guide

Engine oil change

I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles or six months which ever comes first. This interval can be shortened for reasons including: lots of short trips in cold weather, long periods at tick over and off road use.

Now for the bits you will need: The appropriate square sump nut driver, oil filter wrench, 5 Litre’s of new oil, new oil filter (Crossland 2148 or equiv’) oil catch tray and several rags.

Run the engine until normal operating temperature is achieved. Stop the engine and remove the oil filler cap from the top of the engine, BE CAREFUL THE ENGINE WILL BE HOT. Place the oil catch tray under the sump and remove the sump nut. The old oil will drain fairly quickly, while this is draining, attach your filter wrench to the oil filter and remove by turning anti clockwise. More oil will pour from the base of the filter as you remove it. Do not use a screwdriver to remove the oil filter or serious damage will occur to the oil pump. Now use the rags to wipe clean the area where the oil filter locates and then clean the area where the sump nut locates.

Refit the sump nut; making sure the copper washer is in good condition. If the copper washer is worn or flattened to excess, replace it. Now smear some clean engine oil around the rubber seal on the new filter and screw it in place being very careful not to cross thread it. Screw the filter on hand tight and no more. When you are satisfied that these are refitted, you can now pour in the new oil. Do this one litre at a time.  Mahindra state that 4.8 litres are required to refill the engine to the correct level when changing the oil and filter. I would strongly recommend that you check the dipstick level as soon as you have poured in 4 litres. Now add small amounts of oil until you have reached ‘max’ on the dipstick, do not put any more oil in at this stage. Now start the engine checking that the oil light goes out after a few seconds. Continue running the engine until warm and then switch off and leave to settle for ten minutes. While you are waiting, check that the oil filter and sump nut are sealed and no oil is leaking from them. After ten minutes, check the dipstick for level and top up as required.

IF YOU OVER FILL THE ENGINE, YOU MUST DRAIN THE EXCESS, IF YOU START THE ENGINE WITH TOO MUCH OIL, SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.

Oil Bath Air filter The Air filter that is standard on our vehicles, uses oil to trap dirt and dust in the air that enters the engine. As the dirt stays in the oil, this will need changing to keep it working properly. 

Mahindra recommend that you change the oil in the filter every time you change the engine oil.

To change this is fairly simple but a little messy. Unscrew the clamp at the bottom of the air filter box and lower the base away from the upper housing. Be careful with this, it will have a gooey mess in the bottom. To remove the base, you need to tip it on an angle, which usually ensures that the contents spill out. Personally, I have a large hypodermic syringe, available from any chemist to suck out as much of the goo as possible before removal. Once most of the residue has been removed, pull away the base and simply pour out the contents and wipe it all clean. Wipe around the filter box base as well as this will have some bits of goo stuck to it on the inside. Being careful not to dislodge the rubber-sealing strip from the upper housing, replace the clean base in position under the upper housing. Using the same grade of oil you used to refill the engine, refill the base up to the recessed mark and then gently push the base up to refit it to the filter box making sure that the rubber-sealing strip engages all the way round with the rim of the base and retighten the clamp. That’s all you have to do.

Gearbox, Transfer Box and Differential box oil change.

Mahindra recommends that these be changed every 12000 miles using SAE90 gear oil in the gear and transfer boxes and SAE90 ‘hypoid’ gear oil in the diffs’

I change mine at 12000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first

Click here for a full lubrication guide

Changing the oil is very simple and uses 5 litres of oil. Locate the box you are going to service, undo the top (filler) plug and place your catch tray underneath the bottom (drain) plug. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain for a few minutes and then flush through using a proprietary flushing oil. Allow this to drain away and then refit the drain plug.  Using an old washing up liquid bottle, start to refill the box through the filler (top) hole. Fill to the bottom edge of this hole and refit the filler plug. Clean all round and check for leaks and that’s it, you’re finished. Now do the same on the other three boxes and you’re done.

Grease This is another very important substance and performs in much the same way as oil but is used in high stress areas where the surfaces you want to keep apart move very little or at slower speeds. E.G. track rod ends and Universal Joints. UJ’s move at high speed as the prop shaft turns but the lubricated joint moves very little, so pressure pumped oil is not required not to mention difficult to supply. Greasing your Mahindra is a simple task using good quality ‘high melting point’ grease in a normal grease gun. There are grease nipples situated all over the vehicle with which to attach your grease gun. They are:

 

Tie rod ends                                              x 4

Steering drag link                                    x 2

Clutch Pedal                                              x 1 (internally)

Hand brake cable                                    x 1 (just above steering box)

Brake pedal                                               x 1 (internally)

Steering Bell crank                                  x 1

Transfer Case Shift Lever                      x 1 (from underneath)

Suspension spring pivot bolt              x 4

Prop shaft Universal joints                   x 4 (one each end of each shaft)

Prop shaft slides                                   x 2 (one on each propshaft)

Rear axle bearings                                  x 2 (one each end of axle) *

 

* Special care is needed when greasing the rear axle, Watch carefully for the ‘tell tale’ vent directly above the nipple, make sure this is not obstructed, when grease emerges stop pumping. To continue will force grease into the rear brakes and render them useless and dangerous.

Mahindra recommend that these be done every 3000 miles

This fits nicely with the oil change interval so I do all mine when I am changing the oil and filter.